When you start to investigate the available veneers on the market, it becomes really hard for me to know any weight to it, that many people have. Probably it's anxiety about the unknown.
For some, it could be that veneered furniture is considered to be inferior to wood furniture. That couldn't be further from the truth. Maybe it's the fact that some of the woodworking principles are invalid for using this material. Or maybe the cost of purchasing a new facet of an already high priced hobby. Or maybe it's the thought of buying the apparatus, and winding up perhaps not using it. Just the person can solution these resistances to a new way of woodworking.
I would like to present a simple, low priced way to "test the seas", to discover when it is for you. Notice I did not claim, if your capable of it. You are.
To begin with some products needed, which are inexpensive. We can focus on a straightforward challenge, which could be employed for numerous point, and also that can be decided following
completing the veneering part.
Utilizing a little piece of M.D.F.,(medium density fiberboard), possibly 1/2" or 3/4" solid, and whatever size you've putting around. Plywood works with this too, be is not as secure as M.D.F. For those that aren't aware, there is a really light version of M.D.F., that weighs about 50 % that of the regular product. The functioning homes are very nearly identical.
The following point needed could be some veneer. Woodcraft and Rockler equally promote little
packs of *sequence coordinated veneer.* This means the parts in the packs were reduce from
the wood, and held in the order in which these were sliced. That ensures you will see hardly any huge difference in the grain sample in one bit to the next.
These packs come in numerous measurements, and range in cost from $ 25.00 to about $ 70.00. Something to keep in mind when eliminating them from the package, is to quantity them with a pencil. That can help you hold them in the same order as these were taken from the log.
The following product to purchase could be veneer recording, which comes in various thicknesses, and also in a solid, two hole, or three hole version. The most frequent is really a moderate weight, three hole tape. That recording must be moistened and put on the *face* area of the veneer.
Every one of my cutting and matching is done on the trunk area,or stuff area, of the veneer.
Chopping can be done with a desk saw, timber chisel, veneer saw, or scalpel. When I reduce
veneer, I usually recording at least one veneers area of the veneer with orange painters recording, wherever it is to be cut. If perhaps taping one area, it is the trunk side. This way, the recording will help to keep the cutting system from following the grain of the veneer. If it's a difficult veneer, just like a burl, I usually recording equally sides. That produce chip free joints possible.
When cutting the veneer with a desk saw, sandwich the pre *taped* veneer between two
items of plywood, which are attached together. The simplest way to do this is to make the
plywood longer compared to veneer to be cut. Keep consitently the veneer similar to the side of the plywood. Keep consitently the screws within the size of the finished size of the veneer. (Just to prevent you from cutting through the screws). Utilizing your dining table saw, tear one side of the veneer. Today spin it around, or turn it over, and tear one other *pre taped* edge.
Now you are able to eliminate the screws using one conclusion of the plywood. Utilizing your miter
gage, you are able to square up one conclusion of the sandwich. Accepting you did recording the veneer
before putting it in the sandwich.
Once that conclusion is reduce, spin it around, maintain it from the miter gage and eliminate the screws. It is unlikely any such thing will move around in this fashion. Today reduce that end. I will try this in less time than I possibly could type it.
Today the veneer is free of the plywood. Cautiously eliminate the orange recording, by pulling it *with* the grain. If you not in favor of the grain, it will chip the edges.
You understand have a perfectly uniform package of veneer, which is preparing to be joined. Determine the sample you want. To create a four way book match, start the parts just like a book. The four similar edges is going to be in the middle of the panel.
Today, functioning from the trunk area, make the ends of two pieces. Applying little items of
orange recording, hold the joint firmly together, and position the recording across the joint. Taking on the recording will grow it somewhat, and when produced will draw the joint tighter together. Continue this every four inches or so.
Today turn it over and apply the veneer recording in the same fashion. After you have applied the veneer recording across the joint, work a bit down the whole amount of the joint. Utilizing a monitor roller, or veneer roller, or perhaps a soft steel wire brush, perform the recording to the veneer.
Today do one other two parts the same way. If you are finished this, join both halves, utilising the same technique. Today, gently turn it over and eliminate the orange painters tape. Never veneer a substrate with possibly masking recording or orange painters recording in the glue.
The following decision to be produced is the stuff type, and way of fastening the veneer. In order to hold it simple, we'll look at the three hottest methods.
The initial will be a urea resin glue. The best clamping technique will be a vacuum bag.
Yet another chance is really a caul, with a platen. The platen applies force over a larger area. The cauls are spread equally and held tightly. Be sure to employ a piece of feel paper between the veneer and the platen, to prevent them from bonding together, should any stuff press out ontoyour work.
The following technique, which is very nearly similar to the initial one, aside from the usage of Tite Bond Cool Push Veneer Glue. The gluing program technique is the same for several three types of glue. That will be a small napped roller, scattering a gentle also fur to equally surfaces.
The third technique could be the easiest for a few, and that is always to apply Tite Bond Form II, P.V.A. glue. This approach involves layer equally surfaces, making them dry, and ironing them on, with a residence maintain metal, collection to a moderate high setting.
After the stuff has cured, dampen the veneer recording, and let it sit. After having a pair moments, dampen it again, again waiting a few minutes. Then employing a putty knife or cabinet scrape, *gently* eliminate the veneer tape.
Fight the temptation to sand the screen for a few days. This allows the water to
escape the veneer at the joints. Install a benefit therapy as preferred, and hand sand, Attempt to sand with the grain at all times. Remember, normal veneer is 1/40" thick. It doesn't take significantly to sand through
No comments:
Post a Comment